Germany – a Guide for Roads Less Traveled

Steeped in history, this country offers architectural, natural and culinary wonders – give this place due time to explore!

SHOWING IT’S AGE

I’d visited Europe once prior but, history shapes a little differently for Iceland. Germany oozes old-world energy. It’s the first time I’ve been around buildings older than my 250 year-old country and lending perspective that hadn’t otherwise hit home. I felt humbled in new ways. Having just completed my third visit to Germany, I find new reasons to be in awe of it every trip. And, most of my time spent in Germany has been within areas which might be considered lesser known. Or, at least, less popular for travelers. Let this be a helpful guide for you – where to go, what to enjoy and a number hidden gems worth your time!

SCHWARZWALD – THE BLACK FOREST

The region famous for its dense evergreen forests, scenic villages, and connection to the Brothers Grimm fairy tales like Hansel and Gretel and Sleeping Beauty.

The Black Forest got its name due to the dense canopy of trees that block much of the sunlight, making the forest appear dark and “black” in certain areas. This dense vegetation gave rise to the name as early as Roman times. Give this place a much deserved spot on your itinerary – experience the mystique and natural beauty for yourself!

BONNDORF

On the southern side, Bonndorf is a great place to stay overnight and set yourself up for exploring the Black Forest.

I’d recommend staying at Mohringers Schwarzwald Hotel. With beautiful views of the Swiss Alps in the distance, this boutique hotel has a cozy feel, a serene wellness center & pool, and located within walking distance of a grocery, restaurants, bars and a couple parks.

You can use this location as a leaping point to Lake Titisee – a massive lake with boating, beaches and shops aplenty – and to Lake Feldsee. I highly recommend this hike. Within it’s 6 miles, you’ll experience all the splendor of the Black Forest. And at the base (by the lake) you’ll find Raimartihof – Gasthaus restaurant, where you can grab locally crafted souvenirs and delicious food before making your way back to the parking lot.

And if you’re in Bonndorf long enough, you’ll notice a local favorite beer Rothaus. The brewery is a short, 20 minute drive from Bonndorf and while it was an impulsive stop for us it has quite a memorable gift shop.

CUCKOO FOR CUCKOO CLOCKS

You may already be familiar with the cuckoo clock’s origin in Germany. Specifically, they were born out of the Black Forest Region. And north of Lake Titisee you’ll find Deutsches Uhrenmuseum – The German Clock Museum – which lays heavy emphasis on the iconic, cuckoo variety. A testament to Germany’s legacy of craftsmanship and innovation, this is a popular souvenir!

NEVER FORGET THE FOODS

You can find these throughout Germany but I find it a little extra special to enjoy these treats while you’re in the neighborhood – black forest ham, black forest cake, and cherry water (spoiler – it is not water).

BADEN-BADEN

Bathhouses are all across Germany but it’s worth stopping in Baden-Baden, which is known for it’s natural hot springs used by the Romans over 2000 years ago. Baden-baden translates, literally, to bathe to bathe. And this “spa town” offers a ton of options to luxuriate. Here are two of the most notable:

Friedrichsbad, with it’s incredible architecture and ultra pampering service, has been in operation for well over a century. Mark Twain was a patron and famously said “After 10 minutes you will forget the time and after 20 minutes the world.” Be mindful of the days on which swimsuits are allowed and those which are nude, which is customary (regardless of what bathhouse you decide to visit, do research for the sake of comfort!)

Caracalla is the spa we ultimately chose. Spacious with indoor and outdoor pools and a sectioned off spa dedicated for those who wish to be nude – it was the best of all worlds for our party and we could enjoy to our respective comfort levels. It is a beautifully serene space and, as Mr. Twain said, you forget the world.

HEIDELBERG

Heidelberg, located in southwest Germany, is a picturesque city known for its romantic charm, historic sites, and vibrant cultural scene. With its stunning landscape, rich history, and atmosphere, this city is a must-visit destination for anyone exploring Germany.

HEIDELBERG CASTLE

This iconic reminder of the past, perched above the city, is a blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It offers stunning views of the Neckar River and the Old Town. Within is Heidelberg Tun (Heidelberger Fass), an enormous wine barrel built in 1751 with a capacity of approximately 58,000 gallons (219,000 liters). It is one of the largest wine barrels in the world.

Historically, it was used to collect taxes paid in wine from local vineyards under the rule of Prince Electors and was even adorned with a dance floor on top.

ALTSTADT – OLD TOWN

Heidelberg’s historic heart is filled with cobblestone streets, baroque buildings, quaint shops, and cozy cafes. The Hauptstrasse (Main Street) is one of Europe’s longest pedestrian zones. A perfect area to grab a meal!

OTHER NOTEABLES

Heidelberg is also home to Germany’s oldest university, founded in 1386.
By the Neckar River, lies a scenic path providing panoramic views of the city and is a favorite spot for reflection and inspiration.
Heidelberg also played a pivotal role inspiring the Romanticism movement among creatives – you’ll find tributes to this all over the city!

HIRSCHBERG

Of all the places I’ve visited in Germany, I remember Hirschberg most fondly. It’s a small, charming town about 30 minutes North of Heidelberg surrounded by lush vineyards and rolling hills. It’s a peaceful destination for nature lovers and those seeking a quiet retreat; serving as our “home base” while in Southern Germany.

An incredibly idyllic restaurant sits on a plateau overlooking the town, nestled in ruins of an old castle. Since this writing Burg-Gasthof zur Strahlenburg has closed – and it’s so worth keeping an eye on this destination for what hopefully reopens in this beautiful space.

A spot we dined multiple times was Gasthaus Pension Zur Bergstrasse, where we were served by incredibly kind people and connected with the locals – all eager to share their love of Germany. This restaurant is where I learned I really enjoy currywurst.

And if you’re up for something a little funky, check out Tropic Beach Bar Rheinsheim. Literally, a little slice of the tropics situated on the Rhine.

NURBURING

For the adrenaline junky, make some time for Nurburing – a motorsports complex located in the town of Nurburg, Germany – and test your mettle on a racetrack. They welcome all experience levels and lay some ground rules for safety (in general, drive sensibly). And, off you go!

There’s no reservations. You pay per lap ($30-35) and are welcome to bring your own vehicle or rent from one of the onsite offerings (that price varies, of course – make, model, transmission). One lap is approximately 12 miles. If all the turns and elevation gain feels too much, there’s always the autobahn.

KOLN (a.k.a. COLOGNE)

If you had to pick only one city to visit in Germany, dare I say, it should be Cologne.

Cologne offers modernisms studded with rich history – both honored by the city’s landmarks and numerous museums. A shopper’s dream was my initial impression. And that humbling I mentioned at the start? It happened here.

A quick and dirty history – the city has been standing since 50 AD, starting under the Roman empire. It became an important provincial capital and the remains of Roman bath houses are still viewable, to this day. Fast forward to the French Revolution, where the territory fell under French occupation from 1794-1815. “Cologne” is the French version of the city’s name which has been accepted as the standard in English, too. Koln (with an umlaut, which I’m missing), the German.

Bonus, everything we did in Cologne (listed below) was walkable!

KOLNER DOM – COLOGNE CATHEDRAL

This Gothic masterpiece is one of Europe’s largest cathedrals. Construction began in the year 1248 and wasn’t completed until 1880 – 632 years of devotion by generations of people. Walking this sacred space was incredibly moving. That’s coming from someone who does not practice any religion.

It houses relics of the Three Wise Men and allows visitors to venture up into it’s towers, offering breathtaking views of the city.

Inside, bare shoulders are considered disrespectful. Scarves are offered at the entrance to cover up and are returned upon exiting.

LINDT’S SCHOKOLADENMUSEUM (CHOCOLATE MUSEUM)

I mean YEAH, I WENT HERE. And, look, it’s true – chocolates are way better in Europe. Honestly, a lot of food is better in Europe. Scheduling an English guided session was a little tricky and didn’t work out with our schedule. We visited the gift shop regardless and, I was quite the kid in a candy store.

THE FARINA HOUSE & FRAGRANCE MUSEUM

The birthplace of Eau de Cologne. Among the many fragrances for purchase, you can still buy the original scent! Created in 1709 by Johann Maria Farina, this light, citrusy fragrance was his tribute to the city and became a sensation across royal courts. Notably, it was crafted as a unisex fragrance – revolutionary at the time!

KOLSCH BEER

Another item Cologne is famous for – Kolsch – a light, crisp beer brewed according to strict local traditions. Be sure to snag one of these while you’re in it’s birthplace!

GLOBETROTTER COLOGNE

If you’ve got the time and have an appreciation for the outdoors, pop into this store. It is probably the most extensive and best outdoors outfitter in the world. This location, in particular. Four floors covering every activity and brand you can imagine and special opportunities to test the equipment before you buy – for example, a freeze chamber for winter gear and a pool for paddling kayaks.

FRANKFURT

Of all the places I’ve been, Frankfurt felt the most stereotypically German. Town squares with storybook architecture, live polka playing, beer and food halls. Granted, we didn’t touch the obviously metropolitan space clearly represented in the distance (aside from the airport). Downtown is known as “Mainhattan” due to it’s skyline, featuring some of Europe’s tallest buildings.

Along Main River, you’ll find world-class museums. Sachsenhausen district is known for it’s apple wine (apfelwein) taverns – a great spot for nightlife and dining.

Eisener Steg Bridge, a popular pedestrian bridge adorned with love locks and stunning vistas.

MUNICH

Where, ironically, I’ve spent the most collective hours in Germany and experienced the least. My profession brings me to Munich every couple of years, specifically, the Messe Munchen convention center. Perhaps I’ll write a separate post on the wonders that is Electronica (the world’s largest electronics convention). But for here, I’ll share what I have enjoyed in Munich!

HOFBRAUHAUS

Of course. I’m not sure I really want to experience Oktoberfest in Munich – one of the biggest tourism draws to Germany – but, you can visit these beer halls year-round. And, they are pretty glorious. Hofbrauhaus dates back to 1589! Talk about tradition!

MARIENPLATZ

Also known as the City Center and Old Town, it has been Munich’s heart since the year 1158. There’s an absolute ton to do here and in the surrounding areas. Enjoy the many shops and restaurants along with historical landmarks Neues Rathaus with it’s famous Glockenspiel, St. Peter’s Church and the Frauenkirche. During late November through December, a Christmas market (Christmaskindlmarkt) fills the square.

RESIDENZ MUSEUM

While castles seem a dime a dozen across Germany (seriously, they are everywhere) how many palaces can you visit in the world? Now treated as a museum, Residenz was once home to Bavarian dukes and is a masterpiece of architecture and design. Not too far from Marienplatz!

PARTING TRAVEL TIPS

Germany is an easily travelled country and I hope I’ve inspired you to make a thorough trip of exploring it! The unsung regions are among the most enchanting. Here’s a few more things to know!

Public transit is abundant and accessible. I prefer to be at the reins while I travel and typically rent a car but, know it isn’t essential. In case of long-distance travel, download the Deutsche Bahn app for the high-speed trains. My, US-based Uber app transitioned seamlessly to Germany; just as simple to use. Taxis are abundant within the major cities.

Don’t be shocked by the lack of air conditioning – something commonplace in the US and not as prevalent across Europe. I’ve traveled to Germany in both Summer and late Autumn and found cracking the windows open in my hotel rooms sufficient.

Also, don’t be shocked by hotel rooms being outfitted with 2 twin beds versus a queen or king size. Sometimes the twins are already pushed together; sometimes not (and it’s ok for you to move them). To Europe’s credit, my husband and I now sleep with 2 sets of top sheets (on 1 mattress) and we haven’t fought over the covers in 8 years. It’s a game changer.

While you’re dining, you’ll be offered bottled water “gas or no gas.” It’s sparkling or still. If you’re at a grocery store and the labels are in German – look for the bottles that say natural (usually blue) for still water.

Gratuity is treated as a bonus for a job exceptionally done; it is not expected (like in the US) or offensive (like in Japan).

Most people you’ll encounter speak English (very well). If I’ve encountered someone who struggles with English, they are usually some form of service worker.

That said, learning just a few German words goes a long way. I find this true for local language any time I travel. People are a lot more helpful and kind when showing that simple level of consideration. And it feels good when you nail the accent and the native rattles off a whole lot of words I don’t understand lol.

Hallo – “hello,” (easy, just say this “normal” and you’ll get away with it).
Bitte – “please,” can also be used as “you’re welcome.”
Danke – “thank you.”
- For both of the above, you’ll occasionally hear “schon” tacked on to the end (as in bitte schon and danke schon). This is more formal.
Have these 3 down and you’re good. Bonus points for whatever else you pick up.

SAVORING THE VOYAGE

Germany – a Guide for Roads Less Traveled

SHOWING IT’S AGE